![]() The frame based on aluminum profiles with removable cover panels corresponds to the IEC 60297 standard and dimensions. No matter if desktop or plug-in enclosure, the box grants access from every side. Unibox 14 - versatile 19" enclosure for lab applications Recessed mounting with a pitch of 7.5 mm is possible.Configurations accept PCBs and plug-in units to DIN 41494 or IEC 60297.Adaptation kits available for mounting modules.Panels and modules can be mounted from the front or back.As can be seen we get a Fb of 20 Hz from these heavy weight passive radiators. Above and below UniBox simulation of passive radiator. The reason a lot of subwoofers work at all because efficiency is sometimes appallingly low. Rack mount complete with cover plates possible We get some 4-5 dB extra from such placement.Extruded aluminum frame as a subrack or desktop instrument case.What would be a good amplifier for this sub, bearing in mind the proper box? What kind of power handling are we looking at, to reach mechanical / thermal limits at low frequencies? Not looking to spend alot of money, I know the Behringer line of Pro amps look great, good power for a good price. What would be the ideal box for this sub? Ported, sealed? Size?ģ. Shakes the crystal glasses of my wifes in the kitchen easily, vibrates stuff on the other side of the houseĢ. For as little as it moves however, it outputs quite a bit. The sub also does not move very much, and I know I need a dedicated amp to really drive it correctly. However, I know the sub is not going very deep (maybe hits 30hz at a decent DB, I have used a test CD with test tones down to 20hz). In the second Matrix movie (or third, always mix that up), when the Hammer flies over to pick up Neo and gang on the ground, it absolutely shakes the house. Is this sub decent for HT? I love low bass. I know it doesn't matter near as much in a HT setup)ġ. MODEL: DB-10 Street Pro 800 MAX (I cannot find an RMS rating anywhere, however I estimate it to be 300-350 watts. This info comes from two different websites, and a couple things seem to conflict, but nothing of huge importance. I have searched high and low attempting to find more specs, but this is it as far as I can tell. Here are all of the specs I can find on this sub. I figure I need to build a new one or buy a new one after I talk with you more knowledgeable folks. It's ported, but I don't have the specs on me right now, but that's not really the point anyways. I don't know if I built it correctly or not. I spent a lot of hours searching the internet and using multiple programs in attempt to come up with a good box for the sub. The sub sat around awhile, and one day I decided to upgrade the HT subwoofer using it. I realize the amp is not the greatest, but these speakers are so awesome! Eclipse AVN6620 navigation HU driving) I have Polk SR components and a Polk SR 10" subwoofer. I am using the amp in my current car, driving a sweet setup. Part of the deal when I sold it was that I was going to keep the Earthquake amp and subwoofer (plus tiny box) that was in the car. A year or so ago I sold a Firebird I had as we no longer wanted to dump money in it (I still miss her, smallblock V8, loved it, *sniff). The original subwoofer that came with the setup was an 8" anemic POS. For reference, the receiver (unsure of model, can't seem to pin it down using the internet either) has a single LFE output, this ties into my question. It seems to have decent power, running these speakers fairly well, though I know a newer receiver with more power would make a large difference. In the attic/walls is out of the question as we both love to rearrange the room frequently) I have a Sony receiver running this, the original one that came with a cheap $300 Sony HTIB setup. (love it, wife loves it too, she hated me running wires under the carpet. The surrounds are being connected using a RocketFish wireless device. Surrounds are typical bookshelf models, one 5 1/4" woofer with a 1" tweeter. ![]() Center channel is two 5 1/4" woofers, with a tweeter. They have an 8" woofer, 3" (i believe) mid-range, and a 1" tweeter. I have 3-way floor-standing towers for the front stage. They aren't the best, but a huge step up from the tiny satellite speakers I previously used. I recently upgraded the speakers, all Sony. Thanks in advance for any help you can give. I have lingered for awhile, reading a lot, seeing how you guys do things and also attempting to obtain all of the necessary information before I posted this question.
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